Riblets. Wings. Burgers. St. Louis-style ribs. We associate these cuisines with summer, with cookouts, and with pale ales. And, sure, cookouts with old friends and family reunions are what we all seek to escape the ludicrous speed of our daily lives on the Seacoast. Yet, as we know is often the case, the weather “has a mind of its own,” or as I like to think, is just guesswork.
In the event of treacherous weather, one alternative is the Farm Bar and Grille in Dover. My wife and I had decided to go out to eat and landed on the Farm yesterday, knowing the evenings were cooling off. Although we elected to sit indoors, rather than the outdoor patio, we have often sought outdoor seating. For us, the view alongside the Cocheco River is the draw, as it is for many guests. However, the interior of the Farm pays homage to fine woodworking that you’d associate with the word “farm,” with mahogany-toned and lacquered tables, antiquated wooden floors, and low warm lighting. The warmth of the lounge and dining area pales in comparison to the quality of menu selections offered.
Aside from rotating specials, the core menu we looked at offers an exceptional selection of seafood, entrées, a carousel of appetizers and flatbreads, and some of the best ribs I’ve personally had in a long time. After perusing the apps, we landed on Fried Mozzarella, hand-tossed and deep-fried fresh squares of mozzarella. While hot as they hit the table, neither of us were disappointed in the stringiness that you would expect from fresh mozzarella after being battered and subsequently fried.
We ordered our entrées, she the fried haddock, and I the St Louis-style ribs, which landed several minutes after we received the fried mozzarella. No big deal, as we planned on taking leftovers home. Yet, as the Farm’s website says, “Fresh food, large portions at reasonable prices.” Definitely not an overstatement! She had about one full pound of fried haddock, overshadowing the bed of fries that it came with. As for the ribs, well, the two halves were stacked atop one another, with house-mashed potatoes and a daily veg, which seasonally is zucchini and summer squash.
My wife’s fried Gloucester haddock (perfectly fried, if I may say) embodied precisely how a traditional fried Haddock plate should be. Beyond the golden, crispy breading lies a tender haddock filet, delicate and flaky. To cut into such a work of art is unfortunate, but necessary. Flaking with a mere touch of the fork, there’s no need for tartar sauce; however, a dollop of tartar on such a fine cut of Gloucester haddock enhances the texture of the experience altogether. I will note that coleslaw is something of a weakness of mine, and a side that she particularly doesn’t care for. So, naturally, I stole away her portion of coleslaw and soon realized that she had lost such a flavorful treasure!
Having worked with BBQ and St. Louis-style ribs while at Mojo’s, I can honestly say that The Farm’s ribs are the best in Dover. The “fall-off-the-bone” tenderness of the ribs, the crisp sear of the meat, and the slathering of sauce combine to deliver the robust, savory experience you’d expect at a family cookout. While the daily veg left something to be desired, as it was a bit too tender with a little bite, the garlicky butter complemented the otherwise underwhelming side of veg. The side of home-made mashed potato, however, more than supplements the ribs, in that the salted buttery texture balances sublimely.
As an aside, we have been to many seafood shacks, restaurants, and shanties, and one pattern I notice is the lack of care or time spent on coleslaw. Most often, a line cook or chef will throw together a very basic coleslaw, haphazardly, only getting in a prefabricated dressing. Here, the Farm took pride in everything, including such a simple side as coleslaw. The creamy yet tangy dressing complemented the crispness of the cabbage aptly. Further, the slaw was not drowning in wateriness, which tells me that the ratios used for dressing to cabbage were excellent.
Returning to the topic at hand (Sorry! I’m a total slaw nerd!) Our experience at the Farm Bar and Grille never disappoints. When one goes, one should go prepared to take leftovers. When one goes, plan on leaving room for dessert. I know this past time we hadn’t. I regret it still. However, the cocktail menu is another aspect that draws us there. As a bourbon fan, I tend to go towards any style of Manhattans or Old Fashions, and the peach-infused Old Fashion that day was such a poignant blend of oaky warmth and summer-infused peachiness. This peachy nature made the Old Fashioned easy to drink, with no hesitation.
As we left, our leftovers in hand, I remember looking at my partner and saying, “I think I’m going to give birth to a food baby…” Not that I had overeaten, but to leave full and remain full for the entire night, is a great feeling to leave a restaurant with. Indeed, their slogan of “Fresh food, large portions at reasonable prices” is no exaggeration. The Farm Bar and Grille is, by far, the best place to go for casual BBQ and seafood in Dover.
