Fold’d offers a second chance

A fledgling Somersworth diner is providing a path to job success for NH residents in recovery, one dish at a time.

Fold’d Diner, at 69 High Street in Somersworth, is open five days a week and serves breakfast and lunch.

The business opened in October and has been growing ever since, owner John Burns says.

“The weekends are super busy,” Burns adds. Fold’d is designated as a Recovery Friendly Workplace, an initiative started by Gov. Chris Sununu that helps provide employment for those in recovery or who were formerly incarcerated.

Burns is also executive director of SOS Recovery Community Organization, a community-based organization that offers peer-recovery support services and advocacy for those on probation or who are reentering the workforce from the corrections system; and peer-to-peer telephone support.

“SOS has a pretty robust peer-support program,” Burns says.

Part of SOS Recovery’s ongoing strategic plan is to implement a “social enterprise project” to generate revenue and support long-term sustainability, rather than rely on state and federal grants. The thought of trying something different appealed to Burns.

“A competitive bid process came out through Granite United Way that utilized American Rescue Plan money,” Burns says. “One of the things we noticed is that there was no restriction on capital funding.”

Burns says they received about $250,000 in grant money. In addition, organizations and businesses that contributed funding included the New Hampshire Charitable Foundation, Kennebunk Savings Bank and Granite United Way (via American Rescue Plan Act grant funding). Favorite Foods in Somersworth also contributed financially as well, he says.

Though the project stemmed from a monetary need, Burns says the response from the community has made Fold’d much more than that.

Making the project a diner, one of the state’s largest industries, seemed the perfect fit.

“We can create some stability, without serving alcohol, and support using the resources we have with SOS. So let’s build a space where they can get their feet underneath,” Burns says.

But after a year when Burns still hadn’t found a cost-effective space for the restaurant, Emmett Soldati, owner of tea shop Teatotaller, offered his storefront property in Somersworth as an ideal spot.

“I knew Somersworth really needed a solid breakfast and lunch place right downtown, which was beyond my capacity,” Soldati in an email. “I had already been contemplating moving/changing locations for my cafe as we had more space than we needed, but knew the size of the spot would suit a restaurant well.”

Soldati consulted with Burns, helping SOS build out Fold’d’s business plan, menu design and concept. Like Teatotaller, Fold’d would help provide employment for those in recovery or who were formerly incarcerated.

“Recovery is part of the Teatotaller brand, and (Burns) felt assuming ownership of the space would also allow him to signal to the community that there is still a sober/recovery-focused food establishment downtown,” Soldati says.

Along with Soldati’s help and SOS staff, about 20 volunteers, including businesses including Kennebunk Savings Bank and First Seacoast Bank and other community members, contributed time to get the diner established. All worked nights and weekends to get the location ready. The process took about 18 to 22 months from initial notification until opening day.

To find employee candidates, Burns ran traditional ads and checked recovery centers.

Although employees don’t need to be in recovery to work at Fold’d, many are.

“Seventy-five percent or higher of our employees are either in recovery or identify as in recovery, or they’re people who have come out of incarceration as well,” he says, adding that hiring this sector of the workforce puts a positive spin on the concept.

“A lot of people come in here and have no idea that that’s our background. When they start to realize that, they’re like, ‘Wow,’ because for once they’re seeing people in recovery, and it’s not a story in the media about overdoses or living in tents or living under a bridge,” Burns says.

After working on the Seacoast in fine-dining establishments since about 2002, executive chef and restaurant general manager Mark Segal sought to make a different impact in the restaurant industry.

Helming the diner appealed to Segal because it had a deeper purpose and offered a chance to give back.

“I’ve got a pretty strong background in the Seacoast community regarding hunger advocacy and outreach,” Segal says.

That background was one reason why Burns hired him.

“He said, ‘I don’t want to just go work in a kitchen, I want to work in a place that’s really all about developing people, and I want to see them move on to something bigger and better. But I want to give them that foundation.’ And I was like, ‘Well, you just identified our mission,’” Burns says.

“We are one of those industries that has always sort of tacitly accepted individuals. (At Fold’d), we’re extremely clear about what we’re trying to accomplish,” Segal says. “For me, it was a bit of a natural extension to come on board.”

Segal also coaches and guides staff members.

“I inherited a wonderful team. My ego didn’t feel the need to put my own stamp on things — I can recognize good work when I see it,” Segal says.

Working at the diner has a different pace from a fine restaurant, but is just as challenging, and that’s exactly what he was after.

“One of the things that keeps me going in food in general, and hospitality, is the idea that you can always be learning. It’s one of the things that fueled me,“ Segal says.

To return the favor, Segal wants to further teach employees about the food service industry, and has considered having the team visit restaurants, like the Black Trumpet in Portsmouth, to see how they approach the business.

Soldati, who is in long-term recovery and has been sober for 13 years, says many others face the same challenges as those working at Fold’d.

“While we have many treatment facilities and halfway houses, there is little focus paid to individuals after they take the next step by reintegrating into community. Fold’d offers safe, sober and skill-enhancing employment that provides an income and community,” Soldati says.

The diner offers omelets, signature crepes, tacos and traditional breakfast fare, while its lunch menu is known for its smashburgers, soups and sandwiches, milkshakes and more.

Fold’d also makes breakfast tacos, like the “sunrise taco”: scrambled eggs, hash browns, cheese, sausage, and salsa in a taco shell. There are also glutenfree, vegan and dairy-free options, as well as soy sausage.

“Frankly, we do a pretty killer lunch as well. A lot of people think it’s breakfast and brunch, but our bacon is fantastic. It’s super thick-cut. Great artisanal sourdough bread,” Sega says.